Tallinn, Estonia. Somewhere between a turtleneck and a monument to the Soviets, this Baltic country emerges from overcast skies. Living behing castle walls and fur collars, whistle calls from harbor waters; Helsinki is skipping stones distance. For every 3 million cobblestones there is one bicycle, and I've seen only two bikes so far. I bet somewhere in a tavern here one can dance to Jay-Z. Val took me to a Chocolaterie where I had a Rum Chocoalte drink with raisons in the bottom.